SOLO PRIMI PIATTI
Trofie di Recco/ Tocco de Funzi (Cultivated mushrooms, EVOO, garlic)
Tagliatelle al mattarello/ Sugo Romagnolo (Cherry tomatoes, prosciutto crudo, rucola)
Sa Fregula Sarda/ Bottarga di muggine (Clam broth, bottarga)
Andarinos de Usini/ Su Ghisadu, Fiore Sardo D.O.P. (Braised oxtails, Sardinian pecorino)
Balanzoni Bolognesi/ Mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano D.O.P. and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena D.O.P. Extra Vecchio
Orecchiette Baresi/ Sugo di maiale, peperoncino and Caciocavallo Podolico (Tomato passata, pork sausages)
Su Filindeu/ Brodo di agnello (Lamb broth)
Trofie di Recco
One of the few shapes that originates from a specific place; Sori, a small town in Golfo Paradiso and Recco, Camogli in other towns of Eastern Liguria, collectively. The traditional, laborious hand-forming technique known as ‘strofinare’ or 'strufuggia' may well disappear because all the hard work is now being replicated by machinery. Those formed by hand the traditional way keep the old ways alive and reconnects any native Ligurian with their once humble origins.
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The format is largely eggless with some variants in the past that would utilise 'farina di castagna' during lean times with experiences in food shortages while today, it is more commonly found made with soft wheat flour and water.
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Tocco de Funzi in the Ligurian dialect refers to a Genoa-styled condiment of mushrooms. While the dressing of Pesto alla Genovese is an untouchable accompaniment to this dish, this pasta adapts seamlessly with whatever types of cultivated or wild mushrooms are available (e.g. cremini, porcini, chanterelles or morels) which provides a distinction that its more common counterparts (e.g. portobello and oyster) lack in terms of earthiness and flavour. With mushrooms being the main focus, there is little to no need for other components save for some olive oil, garlic for savouriness and fresh herbs to balance. The final result is a dish that is reminiscent of the wild forest floor and the illusion of foraging in the woods.
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Tagliatelle al mattarello
Bologna argues itself as the rightful birthplace of 'tagliatella bolognese' , citing a court cook of Giovanni II Bentivoglio (a notorious bolognese nobleman), who supposedly invented the pasta in 1501 for Lucrezia Borgia as she was passing through the city. He was inspired to create golden ribbons of egg pasta from her luscious blond locks in a painting kept in the private quarters of the Vatican, by a Rennaissance painter,
Benetto di Biagio. Combine with the classic meat sauce, it embraces the sauce like no other. What matters is their length and thickness, a true demonstration of the skills of sfogline (traditional Italian pasta makers) and chefs who have been trying their hand at re-proposing tagliatelle for centuries. It is Pellegrino Artusi himself ruling how "short tagliatelle" is a testimony to the incompetence of those who make them and, served this way, it looks like a kitchen leftover. As for the width, the gold sample of the tagliatella bolognese housed in a wooden case, displayed at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce in the Palazzo della Mercanzia—Palace of Merchants, applies: the singular raw product measuring 7mm, and when it is cooked it must be exactly 8mm, equal to the 12,270th part of the Tower of the Asinelli, a landmark in Bologna.
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The cuisine of Romagna is often overshadowed by its neighbours to the west section of Emilia with a more revered food culture in the cities of gastronomy i.e. Bologna, Modena and Parma. While there does not seem to be any clear territorial segregation between the two, this region offer different types of gastronomic delicacies, Emilia cuisine based heavily on pork, and Romagna delving more into lighter fare. This dish, dressed in what is admittedly, a much lighter shade in comparison to its warmly comforting cousin, the bolognese ragu, it holds its own and has a pertinent place along the Adriatic coastline.
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Andarinos de Usini
Considered to be a complex shape from the town of Usini in Sassari (a northern province in Sardinia), attributing to the time intensiveness required in shaping each piece. The technique also requires time to grasp in ensuring the perimeters of its ornate form are correctly met so that its cultural ties are respectfully represented.
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In Usini, Sardinia, Andarinos are made with local semola of durum wheat or some variety of heritage grains and prepared over a glass surface adorned with ridges to imprint the same design on the surface of the pasta. Each Andarinu sports 4-5 elegant curls which are formed patiently by practiced hands of the women in the town. There are no known machinery designed presently to mass produce this format as it can only be realized by tactile nuances of the hand.
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Sa Fregula Sarda
One of the many rare shapes from Sardinia, fregula are made painstakingly by "growing" the finely milled granules of flour (semola di grano duro) into tiny balls of pasta by hand. This is achieved with the randomized but purposeful "wetting" and "drying" cycle where the moistening of the flour granules is first achieved by the addition of water (wetting) and followed by flour (drying) which results in a new layer that forms over the moistened granules. As this cycle is repeated, layers of flour and water build over time and each granule is grown until the desired size is attained. It is the rapid movements of the hand and the intuition of the fregula maker that determines the consistency of the final product.
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Although machines are capable of producing this tiny format, traditions are kept alive with the use of traditional methods and tools. A scivedda (enameled terracotta dish) is the main piece of this traditional production, which is used widely across the island for the preparation of bread, pasta and traditional pastry.
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Balanzoni Bolognesi
Balanzoni are not quite as distinguished as tortellini and lasagna, but they are just as delicious and appreciated. These tortelli adopted the name from the famous Bolognese “mask” of Dr. Balanzone (the Doctor), and were consumed during carnivals.
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Il Dottore (in Italian) was born in the city of Bologna, and is a commedia dell’arte (professional street theatre) stock character during the renaissance, typified by the use of ‘masked’ characters. Il Dottore (the Doctor) plays the function of the vecchi or “old men” and are scripted as obstacles to young lovers. In character, Dr. Balanzone was known to be a renaissance and learned man, who enjoys bursting into eloquent speeches that demonstrate his boundless array of knowledge. He is never short on advice, and always keen on sharing his opinions in a verbose way because he simply loves the sound of his voice.
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Dr. Balanzone is represented in this filled pasta of Mortadella, Ricotta and Parmegiano Reggiano. This filled pasta of Bologna approximates the shape and size of tortelloni and made with Sfoglia Verde agli Spinaci (egg and spinach pasta).
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Orecchiette Baresi
This is the most typical product of the Italian south and in particular, the gastronomical emblem of Puglia. There are many versions of throughout the provinces of Puglia, and they all use different names: cicatelli in Foggia, chiancarelle in Taranto to the maccheroni of Bari. The name translates to "little ears" and exist as a very accessible staple when paired with everyday ingredients like tomatoes, cime di rapa (turnip heads) and cacioricotta. Heartier versions are reserved for Sundays after mass where the pasta would be dressed in a very deeply flavoured sugo di carne with a side of braciole (involtini).
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The technique required to made orecchiette by hand is time consuming and also technically challenging which could take years to attain a certain level of proficiency. Although machines have become extremely advanced in order to replicate the quality of handmade orecchiette, the full spectrum of hand control is much more reliable in creating that perfect form: tiny, high and concave with a very rough exterior.
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Su Filindeu
Su Filindeu (or Fili di dio in standard Italian), literally meaning the threads of God, is a variety of Italian pasta prepared exclusively in the Sardinian province of Nuoro. It is the world’s rarest and most endangered pasta variety - allegedly, only a handful of women are in possession of the knowledge and skill today to produce it. It is this reason that Su Filindeu is listed as some of the most endangered foods at risk of extinction - the Ark of Taste initiated by the Slow Food Foundation has listed Su Filindeu among its ranks of endangered traditional foods.
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Although the dough is made with very basic ingredients: durum wheat semolina and water, the tactile gestures are highly nuanced and the recipe, non-existent. Su Filindeu is extremely time-consuming and hard to prepare that for the past 200 years it used to be a sacred dish, served only to those who complete a 33km pilgrimage from Nuoro to the village of Lula for the biannual Feast of San Francesco (St. Francis). Upon arrival at Santuario di San Francesco, the pilgrims are awarded with a bowl of Su Filindeu, cooked and served in a rich sheep broth with a generous portion of local sheep’s milk cheese.
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